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Slidell, LA -- The residents of Chalmette are glum: three and a half weeks
ago, Hurricane Katrina ravaged their coastal community, a suburb east of
New Orleans. Chalmette was determined to be “100%”; this damage
classification means that all of the homes in the community were badly
damaged by the storm, nearly obliterating the small town. Thirty-seven
year-old Ben Holder, longtime resident and homeowner, came back Monday to
find his two-story home flooded with six feet of brackish water and briny
mud. Holder, like many of the residents I spoke with, has an unusually
optimistic attitude:
“My grandmother and mother-in-law were both drowned in the flood, and my
truck is completely destroyed, my boat is upside-down on the roof of my
house, which is also upside down; but somehow, by the grace of God, these
two little lizards I was keeping upstairs spent ten days alone without
food and water and they both of them survived!”
Neighboring Slidell was only slightly more fortunate: a drive south
toward New Orleans along the marshy coast reveals a once-picturesque
gulfside community leveled by the hundred-fifty plus mile-per-hour winds
that swept parallel to the shore for miles. Seventy-five percent of the
trees in the area are down, leaving great swatches of mangled forest, as
though some terrible Harryhausen creature had strolled vindictively
throughout the area. The recovery has begun; in front of each home is an
enormous pile of scrap metal, shingles, broken glass, refrigerators,
furniture, sheet rock, and other mangled particles of the resident’s
lives.
I spoke with Janet Morrow, whose home once occupied a place on a quaint
court. Janet, whose rich Jamaican accent gives a musical lilt to
everything she says, lost Earl, her husband of twelve years, to cancer
two weeks prior to Katrina’s wanton march across Louisiana. Her house
now smells poisonous, like mildew and vomit, acrid and nauseating, an
atmosphere palpably detrimental to the humors, one that causes the eyes
to water. Some of the fetid aroma is from her freezer that has been off
and full of rancid shrimp for three weeks; some of it is from the elk
skin covering her sofa. Janet asked me to help her remove it from the
overturned couch but when I grasped it the slimy hide fell apart in my
hand. I walked outside for air and glimpse the heretofore stoic Janet
clutching one of her neighbors and sobbing, “I have lost so much.”
Now, not yet a month after Katrina, these battered and worn residents are
preparing for another storm. Rita spins through the gulf with sustained
winds reaching over one hundred and fifty miles per hour, her course
noticeably wobbly. As hurricanes gain strength, they destabilize and the
eye’s route across the globe fluctuates wildly, causing the massive storm
to behave like a child’s top unleashed on tiny green plastic soldiers and
Hot Wheels cars. But despite the threat of another fierce windstorm
approaching, what few residents are left seem to be unconcerned with the
approaching crisis. Earlier today I was rudely asked to buy beer for
some kids outside a gas station, pimply goth kids who presumed to ask me
to break the law. I asked them about their take on the threat of Rita.
They shrugged in unison; indifferent.
“What the hell difference does it make, now? What else is there to do?”
drawled the tall girl as she sipped her King Cobra forty -ounce.
As evening approaches, your humble correspondent has hunkered down in a
shed that has been crushed by a giant water oak. By some miracle, the
phone line still works, and I have a decent supply of pot and lukewarm
beer, so I think I can ride out the storm. The largish cockroaches and I
have been getting stoned and listening to the rain fall on the patchy tin
roof, and I just saw a small raccoon run by the door with a soup can on
his head. I am rather well set up here; if I can tap into the optimism
shown by the locals, I may even survive. Lord willing.